We’d had many plans for things we wanted to do over our vacation, but when it became for sure that Chris was going to come to the US in September, we decided to focus on saving money for his time there rather than spending lots of cash jetsetting around Asia.
We did decide that Jeju was a must though, so on an early Tuesday morning, we met Cody and Dez at the ferry terminal to head to Jeju for a couple nights.
The ferry ride was about four hours or so, and once we landed in Jeju, we spent some time taxi-ing to various places in Jeju City in an attempt to find a hotel. Spazzes that we are, we got in a cab to the bus terminal only to turn around immediately and head back towards the seawall, where the first hotel we walked into was really nice and only about $35 a night. Once we settled in we headed to Loveland, a must-see for all of us.
Loveland is, in essence, a sex museum. It’s a park full of statues of people having sex in various places and positions, as well as a building full of dioramas of—you guessed it—people having sex in various places and positions. As well as some displays of sex toys. It’s really interesting that in Korea, a country that is extremely sexually repressed (worse than the US by a long shot), a place like this stays open. It’s a huge draw for foreigners (who doesn’t like to giggle about sexual positions?), and we saw a tour bus full of adjummas come in as we were leaving, but Loveland was not listed on any of the official Korean tourism websites and I definitely got the impression that it was something the Korean government would prefer not to have advertised.

Me with a tamer penis statue at Loveland.
We had some fun there for sure, but it was dampened (pun intended) by the monsoon-like rain that drenched us the entire time. There have rarely been times I’ve been so wet when I haven’t been swimming or bathing. As it so often does…Korea failed at weather that evening, and we were really worried that it would be the same all through our trip.
The next morning things looked much brighter. We’d arranged for a cab to drive us around for the day and had an itinerary of five different Jeju sights we wanted to see. We started with Minimini Land, a sort of theme park the boys had seen advertised on the ferry and were desperate to see. It was pretty funny; basically just a bunch of statues of different world wonders and buildings, but built to a much smaller scale. Saw a miniature Bayon and Forbidden City, which was fun since I’d seen the real things. Spent some time there taking some silly photos and continued to Sangumburi Crater, which had been highly recommended to us by a friend.

I'll see the real thing in January!
It was preceded by a much smaller and less impressive crater, which made the real thing much cooler. In the long run though, it was still just a crater and I’d say it was the least fun thing we did that day. We moved on after that to Seongsan Ilchulbong, a crater that had to be hiked to that stood on the ocean. It grew hot and sunny while we were there, hiking up a series of stairs to the top. It was a little hot but really gorgeous when we reached the top. Took some pics and headed back down, where we veered off to the side where we saw the absolutely beautiful cliffs off the side of the crater, and the black sand beaches that surrounded it. We climbed down and walked along, taking pictures and picking up bits of eroded glass and seashells. We also saw some of the famous woman divers of Jeju, who dive for three to four minutes at a time for shellfish and abalone.

Us near the lovely lava formed cliffs.
After the amazing Sunrise Peak, we got to check out the Manjanggul Lava Tubes, which were really long, dark, wet caves. It was chilly, but fun to wander along the tubes, attempting and mostly not succeeding to capture good pictures of the interesting lava formations. We finished up at a Hedge Maze, which was less fun than it could have been as we were a little short on time, and it was also completely crowded with running and screaming Korean kids.

Night vision pic in the lava caves, taken with Cody's camera.

Dez and I wandering the hedge maze.
We got home, cleaned up and napped, and headed on to Tom n Tom’s for a delicious pretzel dinner, then bought booze and wandered the streets with it. The weather was absolutely beautiful and we found a 24 hour McDonald’s that delivered and a small permanent carnival next to the seawall. Wandered through and found a large paved area near the seawall designed for recreation and completely crowded with Koreans at 10:30 at night.
Something we’ve noticed is how lively public places become at night in Korea. Take a beautiful park at two in the afternoon on a Saturday and it will be empty; the same park at 11:00 will be packed with couples, families, walking adjummas, and drunk adjoshis. It’s really interesting…honestly I kind of wonder when people sleep. Chris and I have also come to the conclusion that young Koreans generally get only four to five hours of sleep a night, so when they reach retirement age, Koreans sleep all the time. It’s not uncommon to see an old man or woman sleeping on a park bench or even in the middle of a sidewalk at one on a Tuesday afternoon. They’re clearly making up for sleep lost in their youth.
Anyhow, we wandered around the seawall area for awhile, met and talked with a man from Mokpo for a bit, ate cotton candy, watched a Korean guitar player, and bought wine to go back to the room with. The rest of the evening involved card games and McDonald’s delivery until we went to bed.
On Thursday we had an amazing (expensive) buffet at a really awesome hotel, then hung out by the seawall playing cards until it was time for our ferry to leave. Unfortunately the most beautiful weather waited for our last day, but we did get to enjoy some of it and got some really pretty pictures by the ocean. The ferry ride home was mostly uneventful and we got back to Gwangju around midnight, where we spent several days being lazy and I bought a new camera. Which is awesome, by the way.

My new favorite photo of us, taken on the seawall.